It was a great trip, with so much to appreciate. The boat was most likely the best one on the river – fast, very stable and spacious enough for photography. Drinks were always plentiful and ice cold, which was much appreciated on long, hot days, as was the Starlink connection! Our boatman, Yco, was amazing at finding wildlife and positioning the boat for good photography. We also really enjoyed Berço Pantaneiro lodge – friendly service, a lovely garden and good food with plenty of choice, even for non-meat eaters. And I appreaciate some accommodations made for me when it turned out I was having a rather severe reaction to the mosquitos (eg finding me bathroom breaks in areas with less mosquitos etc). And of course, the Pantanal itself is one of the very best wildlife photography destinations.
However, there was one significant aspect of the experience that fell short of our expectations as wildlife photographers: the time spent on the river during the best photographic light.
The standard daily safari hours are clearly communicated in advance, so this wasn't a case of being misled about the published schedule. However, I had understood that, particularly on a private safari, there would be some flexibility to adjust the hours in consultation with the guide and boatman. In practice, we encountered some difficulty in arranging this. We did eventually agree on some adjustments, which we appreciated, but these remained quite limited and ultimately meant missing much of the most beautiful light. I also found myself feeling uncomfortable about having to ask repeatedly, which added some unnecessary stress to what should have been a relaxing experience.
For wildlife photographers, this is not a minor detail. The quality and direction of the light can make an enormous difference to the images, and being on the river around sunrise and sunset is an important part of the experience. This level of scheduling flexibility is typically accommodated by photography-focused operators and is also offered by other operators in the Pantanal, including those based in Porto Jofre.
We fully appreciate that longer days can be demanding for guides and boatmen, and we offered to return to the lodge for an extended break during the harsh midday light to make the working hours more manageable, as we certainly didn't want to be unfair. Unfortunately, we couldn't quite find an arrangement that met our photographic priorities.
I want to emphasise that this feedback isn't intended to diminish the efforts of our boatman and guide. Rather, it is about the overall approach to scheduling and the expectations of guests booking a private photography safari.
Journey with Jaguars has a lot to offer, and we genuinely enjoyed all the other aspects of the trip. However, for photographers who prioritise early-morning and late-afternoon light, I would strongly recommend being crystal clear on the hours and what is and is not possible.
If sunrise and sunset outings could be accommodated as an agreed option, I think Journey with Jaguars would be very hard to beat for serious wildlife photographers.